Tuesday, 2 March 2010

Waterfall card tut

This is a tut for my scalloped waterfall card svgs. In the set there are 2 options for the base one with guide holes (white) and without (lilac) and 2 different tabs. The white tabs are very slightly smaller than the base. This allows a very fine mat effect and doesnt affect the waterfall action.

If you're working without a template each of the scallops are 1/2" wide.

With scallops you don't need to score, just fold at the joins along the main strip of the base.

Using my most beloved tombow glue I've attached the white tab to the bottom of the base. In practise you would decorate the tabs before attaching.

I've shown pics so you can see the difference between the bases and how the smaller tab will look.

Very carefully apply a tiny dap of strong glue inside the next row of circles.

Line the top edge with a tab and hold in place for a second or two while the glue dries.

Repeat for the next 2 tabs.

Fold the top section on the base backwards so that the tabs are all facing outwards.

If using brads now is the time to mark your base so you know where to make your holes. I just make a pencil mark through the gaps.

Gently ease some folded ribbon through the hole and slip the ends through the loop before gently pulling the tails to secure.

It's a good idea to use an eyelet if you're a bit hamfisted like me. When I've pulled the tails I have ripped the card before now. Oops lol

If using brads attach the waterfall to the base. If you arent using brads strong dst underneath will work but I prefer to use thin ds foam.

Gently pull on the ribbon to make sure the waterfall is running freely.

Attach the base & waterfall to your base card. I've cut the waterfall at the design size and mounted it on an A6 card but it will work perfectly well on a 5*7 or a5.

3d flower tut

A huge thankyou to my mate Angiebabe for teaching me how to make 3d flowers from 6 sided punchies. I've been meaning to get the technique translated into an svg file & tutorial since last summer. The files have been made for ages but seeing as the girls are coming to make flower embellies next week I thought I'd better get the tutorial up.

For the tutorial I'm using my scalloped rose svg but it can be done with any symmetrical design of punch or die. You could even use scalloped circle or border punches.

If using my svg file simply drag to the required size and cut from a nice paper. Not worth using card as it's hard work getting it to bend nicely.

If using punches cut the petals down as per the picture. It's going to take 4 punchies.

Using a large embossing tool to gently curl the top edges.

Apply some strong glue to the top of one of the edge petals.

I'm using tombow mono multi. OMG this glue is the business how did I ever not know about it. It's got an amazing grab power within a couple of seconds, even for box tabs. (Knowing that it's repo I even coated the back of some of my ums last night and they're sticking well to the blocks and laminate carriers).

Enough of the raving about glue and on with the tut.
Gently ease the adjoining petal over the top of the glue.

You'll now have a 5 petaled flower that's sitting proud of the mat.

Repeat this step for the 5, 4, and 3 petal pieces. You will now have 4 layers of the flower.

The 2 and 1 petal flower have to be gently rolled before glueing one edge down.

If you feel it's looking a bit flat you can gently ease a pencil inside while the glue is drying.

Using some dimensional glue or tombow to stick the layers into each other. My own preference is pinflair glue gel as it dries clear and doesnt smell. The tombow does work and doesnt need the drying time but I want to make the centres stand proud.

Leave the flower well alone until the glue has had chance to set. Top tip... leave the flowers to dry on some nonstick cooking mats. I've have a few stick to the card they were standing on and my marble chopping board has to be scrapped to get rid of the mess.

Monday, 1 March 2010

Easel Card Tut

Easel cards are all the rage at the moment and after making some it's easy to see why.

For my tutorial I'm using 2 of my scalloped easel card templates but you can follow along making one by hand using a piece of card 10* 5" for the base and with a 5*5" piece for the easel front.

With the base card you need to score half way along at the 5" mark. With my svg templates this is marked with a tiny perforation each side or if using the scallops just count the scallops and score between 10 & 11 on the circle base. The square base doesnt need scoring as the scallops will fold on their own.

The next score along is at 7.5", for the circle card score where the scallops end, the scalloped square is 5 scallops in.

Fold the card as normal and fold along the 2nd score line.

Place a decent amount of strong dst in the small section nearest the edge of the card.

Under normal circumstances now is the time to decorate the front of the easel before attaching them together. I rarely decorate a card on a tut because I want to show the mechanics not something that you'd need to go out and spend a small fortune buying the inks/stamps/decoupage etc to recreate to the letter.

The circle base has to be attached to the scalloped circle so the fold line is half way down the circle and runs between the scallops. It's hard to photo and explain but once you have the pieces in your hand it's quite easy to see what I mean. With the square line the outer edges together. You might find it easier to have the card folded as a normal card and lay the square over as though you were doing a normal mat.

Once the easel fronts are in place they should look like this. Don't worry if they flop over instead of standing up.

Decorate the inside if required. Glue a strip of card/paper across the inside of the card if using a strip. The back edge is going to be the line where the front stands against the inside so don't put it too far away from the edge and make sure it's not in the half nearest the fold line.

Cut a small decorative tab and attach some 3d foam tape/squares.
This is where I normally add a sentiment and it's easier to do so before the sticky is applied.

Attach the small tab centrally across the strip and fold the front over. The front edge should sit nicely behind the tab.

Wednesday, 3 February 2010

Step by Step for my 3d Pram

Sorry for the delay in putting this tutorial on, not sure how I forgot to upload it but judging by the lack of requests I'm guessing that everyone has found it pretty easy. I hope that's the case as I try not to do difficult.

First thing you need to do is set scal2 to 90dpi(inkscape) then everything will cut to size. You can do that via the edit/preferences menu.

Once you've done that import the base.svg There are 2 different widths of base, narrow and wide, both can be dragged to make any depth you want but you must keep the keep proportions box unchecked then drag to the depth you require. Although both will work because the tabs are going to shrink/stretch it's best to use the version nearest to the size you require.

Once you've decided on the size it's time to import the other pieces, you will need to import the frame twice and the wheels twice if you want to double them up for stability. If you're going to stamp on the sides for decoration now is the best time to do so.

Once cut take the base section and score along the bottom of the tabs.

Fold the tabs up as shown.

Gently easy the base over a rolling pin/your arm so that it's gently curved. This will help when it's time to stick to the side.

Attach some strong double tape around the edge of the 2 sides as shown, don't forget to mirror them.

Very carefully ease the base into the side sticking the tabs as you go.
If you arent very confident with using strong sticky tape add some stick glue over the exposed sticky and this will give you a small amount of slippy time.

By the time you reach the top of the hood you should have a piece like this. Firm down the tabs again, just to be sure.

This always looks like it's going to be tricky but it isnt too bad at all unless you've made the base thinner than an inch. Gently place the other side to the base and use your thumb to attach the tab to the glue. This is one time when you might be glad of stick glue over the dst.

You should now have the main body of the pram assembled.

I tend to 3d decoupage the hood area now but you might prefer to attach at the end.

Using some strong dst place on the to top section of the longer parts of the frame and attach to one side of the pram.

This for me is the trickiest part, lining up the other frame. I find it helps to have the pram stood up so I can judge by eye. You may prefer to stand over and have it flat to the table. It does sometimes help to have one of the cocktail sticks through the central supports.

We're nearly finished now, just to add the wheels. You can do this in a variety of ways, either sticking them directly to the frame, as in the pics with cocktail sticks or by using brads.

I don't want the wheels to turn so I've chosen to attach an inner and outer wheel and stick them together with some glue gel. Once the gel has had time to set I would either cut the ends of the stick flush or I would leave a small section visible and glue a bead over the top. The handles are shaped to hold another cocktail stick, just make sure there's either a large bead at each end or you use a strong glue to hold in place and trim the sticks.

Top tip... don't use your best paper scissors to cut the cocktail sticks, kitchen scissors make a much nicer job and don't get damaged. Don't ask how I know ;o) lol

No matter which way you go it's essential you remember this pram isn't a toy and it must remain out of reach of a child.

Hopefully I haven't confused anyone on how to put the pram together. If I have just drop me an email at playingwithpaper@googlemail.com and I can talk you through it.